What Amadu Will Miss the Most

About a year ago I found myself in a little bit of a slump. I was a few months back from a visit to the states, and a couple months away from a trip to Ghana. In an attempt to raise my spirits I started making a list of the things I will miss most about Mali. I know it sounds a little bit corny, but I was hoping that in making this list I’d be thinking about all the things I love about this wonderful place.

As time went by I slowly added to my list. Anytime I noticed something that really made me happy.

As I write this, I have about ten more days as a Peace Corps Volunteer. I cannot believe I am writing those words, and it really has not even begun to sink in. But, since my time is almost over I thought maybe I should share some of the things I am soon to miss.

Right now, we are in the midst of rainy season, and Malian rainstorms are something I will never forget. I have felt the rain down in Africa and man does it pour.

A Malian rainstorm passing us by on a hike

I realize that we have stars back home, but out in village where not a single light or speck of pollution can obscure your view, you finally realize that there really are a whole lot of stars. I’ve heard that we have a moon in the states too, but you really notice it a whole lot more when it’s your only source of light. You can always tell when the moon is full because the kids all go crazy at night, dancing and playing in the streets.

I will miss the street food here so much. Here in Kayes we have a lady named Fanta Diallo. We love her. Beans and pasta for a buck. Why don’t we have beans on the street?

Spending at least 90% of my time outside. This is of course by neccessity, but it’s still pretty cool. When I am inside it’s only to sleep, and under my mosquito which I realize I probably won’t need at home. I still might use it. I cannot describe the feeling of climbing into bed and just somehow feeling completely safe.

I will miss my students so much. That’s near the top of the list. They are amazing. In terms of their levels of learning, they obviously don’t compare to American students. But in courage, they blow them out of the water. Whether they bike 10 miles every morning, live away from their families 9 months out of the year, or even come to school and feed their babies during breaks, their courage blows me away. I made sure to tell them as much. There’s a corny baseball movie I love called “Hardball” in which Keanu Reeves, a baseball coach, tells his team that, “I am blown away by your ability to show up.” That pretty much sums how I feel about those kids.

In particular I love Fily Sidibe and Baila Sow’s cursive (so perfect). You have to admit Americans don’t place much value on handwriting. My own is illegible. I will miss Fousseyni Sissoko’s cocky walk. He had this walk that just announced how confident he was. I will also miss Sekoba Damba’s breathtaking running. This tiny 7th grader could run like the wind without even looking like she was trying.

Soccer fever! I wish I could somehow bring that back. My soccer buddies. I loved being on that field. Playing as just one of the guys. Sports are really the great equalizer. I cannot remember ever being so nervous for any game as when I was playing goalie for Dialafara with the entire town out watching. I’ve also never had more fun watching sports than watching the World Cup in village. I’ve also never had more fun watching a game when my team lost then when the US lost to Ghana. I was dissappointed to say the least, but man it was fun. It wasn’t just the World Cup either. It was Champions League, African Nations Cup, and every little exhibition match. It was 40-plus people crowded around a ten inch (at most) TV.

Buying phone credit is a random one. But, it’s kind of like playing the lottery and winning every single time. You buy phone credit on the street, and then scratch off these card. I always win! I will miss having so many people to speak French with on a daily basis. I’ll actually miss skyping with people back home too. And huge packages in the mail. I never thought I’d  be so excited to get powdered drink packets.

My breathtaking view of the mountains is something I will never forget. I remember in my first month, I thought that as long as I could take a glance at that view, that everything would be ok. Somehow that made sense to me.

Sometimes when I get asked what I will miss the most, my answer is my cats. It’s actually only a half joking answer. Simba, Nala and all her millions of kittens. I wasn’t at all a cat person before coming here. I was definitely won over here. Their calming presence helped me so much. Also, Malians are deathly afraid of cats. I have no idea why. My friend Abdoulaye was freaking out about kittens. Kittens! They seem to be convinced that cats are the devil. I think they’re really cute.

Malian children are another thing high on my list. First, they can all dance. From birth, it seems like. My homologue’s two year old daughter Coumba can already dance. Really, they can all dance amazingly. On the other hand, I look stupid. Generally kids about age two to eight or so only ever have two reactions upon seeing a toubab (white person). It’s either incredible excitement, or they’re deathly afraid. Either way, they’re running. Towards me or away from me.

Coumba dancing up a storm

Some qualities are hard to pinpoint. But the eternal optimism in Mali is just incredible. For such a poor country, you would never guess it on the people’s faces. I think eating out of one communal bowl is something else I will miss that somewhat helps to underline these qualities. Even though they have so little, everything is still shared. Everyone takes their part, and even eating serves as something of a social practice. It is something of a bonding experience crowding around a bowl with as many as ten people.

Another random thought. The money. Malian (West African) money is extremely colorful and closely resembles monopoly. Why is our money so boring? Then there is the smell. Africa just has a certain smell. I felt the same thing in Senegal. It could just be the garbage, but I’d like to think it’s just something special about Africa.

Then there is the simply magical swish of a women’s pagne. A pagne is something like a skirt, but it’s more like a beautiful flowing fabric. They walk along making a “swoosh, swoosh,” type of sound. Malian women amaze me so much. The men are basically lazy bums. Every single day, I find myself staring at a Malian woman doing what to her is a daily, ordinary task. Whether it’s carrying 500 pounds on her head, or cooking for an army, it never ceases to amaze me. They do it all, and they do it all with incredible grace and beauty.

These are really in no particular order. The only thing that I’m absolutely sure about is that number one is my fellow Peace Corps Volunteers. I know I will see a lot of them again in the US. It will never be quite the same though as when we met up in Bamako or Kayes or wherever, for a break from our villages. The bond between all of us is truly forever though, and years from now we will be able to look back on this experience we shared, and smile.

Me and Sibo in class

Engulfed by the craziness of arts and crafts day

my host family: Fanta, Bato, Will, Keibe, Bebe, Papu, Mariam, Gundo, Le vieux

Arts and crafts day pics..

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Host family, hiking, biking pics..

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